As the cool season gives away to Thailand’s burning season, travelers and expats alike are met with the same dilemma they face every year: where should one go to escape the yellow skies and smog-filled air that graces the entire upper half of Thailand?
The bad news is that the smog is prevalent as early as January and extends to mid-May. The worst is during March and April with AQI (air quality index) levels reaching the 200s (aka the danger zone).
The good news is that you can either travel down south to Thailand’s beaches or you can buy a cheap international ticket to some of the neighboring countries in Southeast Asia.
Escape to Southern Thailand
We get it. You want to travel to Thailand or you’re already here but you’ve got to escape the yellow skies, smoke-smelling air, and air pollution.
Southern Thailand is the place to be during Thailand’s burning season. There are few farms to burn and the crosswinds from the Andaman Sea and the Gulf of Thailand keep the air clean. Here are six clear-skied places we recommend going to.
Krabi
One thing we love about Krabi is that once your flight has landed, you can have your toes in the sand within 30 minutes of driving from the airport. Krabi is a beautiful province with a variety of beaches and several really unique natural sites. Krabi Town and nearby Ao Nang are excellent jumping-off points for day trips to nearby islands.
What are some of the best things to do in Krabi?
- Visit the Emerald Pool and Blue Lagoon near Krabi Town
- Go on an island-hopping tour to Poda, Tup, and James Bond Islands
- Kayak through caves at Ao Thalane
Recommended Krabi Hotel: Cliff Beach Resort. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Get the Guide: Island Lover’s 7-Day Guide to Krabi
Phuket
Phuket is Thailand’s largest island and is among the most popular places to visit in the entire country. Not only does it have its own international airport and dozens of direct flights every day, it has all the comforts that refined travelers and expats enjoy: high-end international hotel brands and restaurants, massive air-conditioned malls, and gorgeous beaches.
What are some of the best things to do in Phuket?
- Take a day trip or overnight trip to Koh Phi Phi
- Lounge on one of Phuket’s 30+ beaches
- Explore the delectable restaurants of Phuket Old Town
Recommended Phuket Hotel: The Beach by Glitter House. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Koh Lanta
Koh Lanta is a middle-of-the-road island that provides a solid vacation spot for travelers on any budget. Its roads are easy to navigate and you’ll find plenty of cafés, restaurants, and bars along its main streets. There are several secluded beaches if you’re looking for peace and quiet and there are lots of outdoorsy things to do on Koh Lanta and its nearby surrounding islands.
What are some of the best things to do in Koh Lanta?
- Snorkel at Koh Rok (our favorite snorkeling spot in Thailand to date)
- Catch a sunset cocktail at Reggae Bar at Crown Lanta
- Stroll along the quaint streets of Koh Lanta’s Old Town
Recommended Koh Lanta Hotel: Lanta Castaway Beach Resort. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Koh Chang
If you’re backpacking or traveling on a budget, this is the island to go to. Koh Chang is the most affordable island we’ve been to in Thailand and has a good balance of pretty beaches along its west coast and a variety of things to do. It takes a little while to travel to, but once you’re there, it’s clean, beautiful, and relaxing.
What are some of the best things to do on Koh Chang?
- Kayak to nearby islands like Koh Man Nai and Koh Wai
- Hike and visit waterfalls in Moh Koh Chang National Park
- Visit the Gypsy Village at Bang Bao Pier
Recommended Koh Chang Hotel: Nest Sense Resort. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Get the Guide: Island Lover’s 7-Day Guide to Koh Chang
Koh Lipe
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Want to go really far south? Go to Koh Lipe, with its crystal clear turquoise waters and blinding white sand. It’s extremely tiny, so you can easily walk or ride a bicycle everywhere. Spend your Wifi-free days relaxing on the beach, getting massages, and scuba diving in some of the most beautiful reefs in the world.
What are some of the best things to do on Koh Lipe?
- Go snorkeling or scuba diving at 8 Mile Rock, Hin Takorn Dukoong, Sting Ray City, Stonehedge, and the Yong Hua Shipwreck
- Hang out on the island’s Pattaya, Sunrise, and Sunset beaches
- Take a night island-hopping trip to see bioluminescent algae
Recommended Koh Lipe Hotel: Plawan Lipe Resort. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Koh Phangan
Koh Phangan has a laidback island vibe and a rustic, small-town feel. The beaches are immaculate thanks to the island’s recycling and trash-pickup efforts and the water is gorgeous. We really like how the island is organized into five zones to help visitors choose their ideal location: Commercial, Full Moon Party, Heritage & Nature, Fishing, and Health & Wellness.
What are some of the best things to do on Koh Phangan?
- Go fishing, snorkeling, or diving in the nearby reefs
- Wellness retreats that emphasize yoga, clean eating, and meditation
- Go to a Full Moon Party or Half Moon Party
Recommended Koh Phangan Hotel: Moonstone Studio. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
International Destinations to Visit During Thailand’s Burning Season
If you have the flexibility to travel outside of Thailand, consider spending some time (especially in Thailand’s worst months of March and April) in these four international cities that offer clean, healthy skies.
Bali, Indonesia
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In March, as Thailand rolls full swing into its smoky season, Bali’s rainy season is ending just in time for you to visit. This Indonesian island is very popular with travelers and also has a large expat community. Ubud, Semilak, and Canggu are three popular areas. The cost of living is roughly the same as Thailand and it has pretty tan, grey beaches, excellent local and international food, and a solid nightlife.
What are some of the best things to do in Bali?
- Lounge on beaches and enjoy water-related activities like surfing and scuba diving
- Experience a wellness community that improves the mind, body, and spirit
- Go temple hopping to Pura Luhur, Pura Taman Ayun, or Pura Pusering Jagat
Recommended Bali Hotel: Poppies Bali Hotel. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Cebu, Philippines
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Cebu is part of the larger Visayas island group in the Philippines and it’s a gorgeous place to visit during the smoky season in Thailand. February, March, and April are among Cebu’s driest months and yet it’s not the high season with tourists. The cost of living is slightly less than Thailand, which means that you can escape the smog without breaking the bank.
What are some of the best things to do in Cebu?
- Take a day trip to the incredible Tumalog Waterfalls in Oslob
- Get lost browsing through the hundreds of food stalls in the Taboan Public Market
- Go hiking and camping on Osmeña Peak, Sirao Peak, Chalet Hills, or Mount Naupa
Recommended Cebu Hotel: The Henry Hotel Cebu. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Penang, Malaysia
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Although Penang starts warming back up in March and April and there is some rain, it’s an easy destination to travel to from Thailand. In fact, passport holders of 63 jurisdictions get free 90-day visas on arrival. In particular, we really enjoyed art culture and the food in George Town, Penang’s capital.
What are some of the best things to do in Penang?
- Go hunting for art murals or visit historic sites in George Town
- Take a trip to the nearby beautiful islands of Langkawi
- Taste traditional Malaysian food and learn how it’s made on a guided food tour
Recommended Penang Hotel: Ke-lan-tan House. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
| TIP: If you need to apply for a new Thai visa during Thailand’s burning season, we recommend going to the Royal Thai Consulate in George Town, Penang. It’s the place we prefer to go. |
Nha Trang, Vietnam
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It just so happens that the best time to visit Nha Trang is between February and April. Temperatures are moderate and rainfall is at its lowest levels during the year in this coastal city in Central Vietnam.
What are the best things to do in Nha Trang?
- Go on a one-day or multi-day trip by motorbike along Vietnam’s coastline
- Treat yourself to an unusual but therapeutic mineral mud bath
- Go diving or snorkeling in the Hon Mun Marine Protected Area
Recommended Nha Trang Hotel: Rosaka Nha Trang Hotel. Check rates on Agoda or Booking.com
Stay Safe If You Can’t Escape the Smog
If you’ve already bought plane tickets to a Thai city that has high levels of pollution this time of year (February to May) or you’ve settled down in the northern half of Thailand and want to give your lungs some fresh air, there are a few things you can do to reduce your health risks.
Buy an N95+ face mask
You can proper face masks from 3M stores or HomePro in Thailand or you can order them online at sites like vogmask.com (sold from 20 different countries). They are not the flimsy doctor masks you can buy at 7-Elevens.
Don’t do outdoor activities
Avoid any strenuous outdoor activities like running, biking, and hiking that make you breathe more of the bad air and overwork your heart and lungs. Unfortunately, staying indoors and keeping the doors and windows closed doesn’t add any significant protection from the smog (the AQI levels are nearly as high indoors as they are out).
Buy an air purifier and install air filters in your air conditioner(s)
If you live in Thailand’s regions plagued by smog, invest in an air purifier and install filters in your wall-mounted air conditioners. Order either online at Lazada.com or buy them at HomePro.
Thailand’s Burning Season FAQs
Whether you’ve never heard of Thailand’s burning season, just found out about it, or if you’ve experienced it one too many times, we think it’s fair to quickly address some frequently asked questions about the topic before recommended places to go to avoid it.
When is Thailand’s burning season?
It begins as early as January and goes as long as late May, but the worst months are May and April.
Where is the smoky air in Thailand?
The north and northeast (Isaan) regions of Thailand have the highest levels of smog. Central Thailand, which includes Bangkok, has unhealthy levels of air pollution, too.
In other words, all parts of Thailand except for the southern region.
What causes the poor air quality in Thailand?
Smoke from crop burning and exhaust fumes + No rain for months = Polluted air
Is Thailand’s smog really that unhealthy?
Ah, the million dollar question.
Here’s the thing: even if you don’t experience the temporary symptoms like burning eyes, itchy throat, coughing, sneezing, or difficulty breathing, you’re still inhaling particulate matter that can damage your lungs.
Your health risks increase:
- the longer you’re breathing the bad air
- the higher the AQI (air quality index) levels of PM2.5 and PM10 particles
We aren’t doctors, but if you’re traveling to Thailand’s northern half for a week or two, you’ll survive. At most, you might be uncomfortable. However, the smog is actually really unhealthy for people who breathe it in for weeks and months at a time, especially year after year.
What if I still want to visit during the burning season?
You know yourself best. Don’t travel to Thailand’s central, northern, or northeastern regions if:
- you have asthma, emphysema, or other lung issues
- cigarette smoke, bonfires, or vehicle exhaust irritate you
- if you are traveling with young children or if you are elderly
However, if you feel like you’re healthy and not sensitive to dusty, dirty air then by all means, come for a short visit.
How can I check Thailand’s air quality?
You can check the real-time AQI levels at AQICN.org. Type in the city you want to get levels for, which are color-coded based on safety:
0-50 (Green, Healthy)
51-100 (Yellow, Moderate)
101-150 (Orange, Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups)
151-199 (Red, Unhealthy)
200-300 (Purple, Very Unhealthy)
For more information about the smog and how to protect yourself, you can also visit ChiangMaiAir.org.
Where do you plan to go during Northern Thailand’s smoky season?
PIN IT FOR LATER!
I live on the coast in South Thailand. Periodically there is relatively clean air but usually it is below healthy standards. I have lived all over Thailand and I have never found a place With clean air. All over Thailand People burn In their yards . Sticks, leaves , garbage, plastic . Everyday, everywhere. There is no escaping the smoke. Like I said, I live on the coast near Phuket And I just measured the air outside my back porch because my neighbor was burning and the PM 2.5 reading was just Over 500. Welcome to Thailand.
Stumbled across your blog surfing the web trying to decide between koh lanta and koh samui for the 2nd week of June. Any real difference in the weather and chance of rain between the two?
Both will have on and off rain that time of year – June through September is the rainy season all over Thailand (read more about it in our other post, The best time to visit Thailand) but Samui gets monsoons in October and November. If you’re looking to go all out on your visit, Koh Samui has nicer facilities and has luxury hotels, bars, and tours. If you want something mid-range affordable, go to Koh Lanta. Have a great trip!
That’s very interesting as I actually inquired at a UPS store about this but didn’t mention forwarding my mail overseas but rather just to another city (I do a lot of consulting work so I work all over the country for extended periods of time). The guy said he wouldn’t do it due to the possibility of fraud. I don’t know what type of fraud could be related to a person asking for their mail to be forwarded but that’s what he said). He said if I was a long standing customer that he knew he would do it. My… Read more »
Thank folks. I checked with the UPS store down the street and they are more than happy to forward my mail as you have done. The other UPS store was in a different state so maybe they have different rules there. At any rate just wanted to say thank you. This was probably my biggest concern with moving there and not having a safe way to get my mail. Can I ask how you have UPS forward your mail? Is it better to have them use the USPS or should I use UPS services? Thanks again!!!!
Hi Chris and Angela. I have a totally unrelated question. I plan on moving there in 16 months to retire. Banks and brokerages won’t mail things overseas(credit card replacements, etc). I know you have family that probably collects your mail and forward it to you but I’m curious if you have any ideas as to how others handle this type of situation if they don’t want to use family or friends to collect their mail. I know there are certain mail services that can give you an address for your mail to be sent and in turn they will forward… Read more »
Hi Tom, we use a UPS mailbox service and they forward our mail whenever we request it. We have also had success with credit card companies sending us replacement cards for a fee of around $20 USD. Virtual mailboxes have come a long way and a lot of folks seem to have great experiences with them. We’ve personally used Traveling Mailbox in the past. Hope this helps!
Hi Chris and Angela. Did your credit card company mail the replacement card directly to you in Thailand? I was told that banks won’t mail credit cards overseas. True? Maybe you called the credit card company directly for the replacement request?
With some convincing, we’ve had credit card companies mail us a replacement card (such in the case when we’ve lost it). However, we’ve also been unsuccessful persuading the credit card company to ship to us. We’ve asked family to ship the card to us or you can use a mail forwarding system
Hi Chris and Angela,
Rough one this year. We have been in Pong Noi – Doi Suthep National Park is the backyard – since late January. Burning season kicked in 2 weeks ago. Marked change. We leave in 2 days for a New Zealand house sit. Looking forward to pristine conditions. Awesome tips guys.
Ryan
Lucky duck going to New Zealand. Breathe some fresh air for us, ok? :) :) :)
Hi Chris and Angela. Thanks for all the great info. Using the tool on your website to check air quality it looks like Chiang Mai is horrible now but Chiang Rai is in the very low range. Is this often the case?
Thanks!
Tom
No, this is not usually the case. We would also take into account the several other high readings in Chiang Rai. We suspect the lower readouts might not be accurate.
Hi, Chris and Angela. It’s me again. I really shouldn’t be coming around here so often as I have in the last couple of days (only kidding!) But I just wanted to ask you a couple of questions. If living in Chiang Mai has such a pollution problem for so many months during the burning season, what makes expats love this place so much? If memory serves me, you guys have been living there for some years now. How do you manage to rent a house all year round? I remember the time when Angela was still working as an… Read more »
Thanks for your concern, Grahame. We’re doing alright staying indoors much of the time. (Chris is our ‘human smog detector’ so we know when We’ve fitted our AC units with air filters and our room is equipped with a standalone air purifier. It makes a big difference and we always tell our friends to do the same. Although we’ve never left Chiang Mai for a month or more during that time of year, we tend to squeeze in multiple short trips to the south for 4-5 weeks total to give us fresh air. Expats who can move, do move. However,… Read more »
This is one of the reasons we left – the smoke was just too much living in Chiang Mai. It seems it gets worse every year. It does not look like anything will be done about it – so the best thing to do is leave for that time like you suggest to a beautiful beach place in Thailand. We will be back, but not to live there year round like we had originally planned. We tried to escape to the beach (Koh Lanta) during the smoky season and it was very hot. For us, living in Thailand is best… Read more »
Hi Kathy. You’re not alone! It’s extremely frustrating because Chiang Mai really seems to have it all – great culture, affordable cost of living, good expat scene, lots of international food and products – except for the piss poor air quality 30% of the year. *le sigh* If only Thailand would do something (hmmmmm). We agree – the beaches are dang hot this time of year, so that option is only suitable for some people who can withstand those high temps. Thanks for sharing our blog with your friends. Thailand isn’t perfect and we try to be informative (case and… Read more »
Really nice article.. didnt know about this till now..
What type of season will it be in Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai during October-November? Is this going to be cold already? Thanks..
Thanks! Knowing when to avoid the smoky season is a big deal. As far as the weather is in Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai, in October it’s still hot but the rainy season is basically over. Everything is incredibly green and the skies are as clear as ever. The temperatures start to cool down a bit in November, so the nights can often be slightly cool (high 60s, low 70s, cool enough to wear pants for some people, especially if you are riding a motorbike) but the days are still usually hot and sunny (high 80s, low 90s during the… Read more »