We first stepped foot in Chiang Mai one year ago to date and it turned out to be one of the most pivotal moment in our lives. This was because our first impression of Chiang Mai confirmed that this was the city where we would begin our lives as expats. The blend of East-meets-West culture and the variety of things to do or buy, the genuinely down to earth locals, and the overall navigability of the Chiang Mai streets were all exactly what we were looking for in a new home. We immediately loved it!
We weren’t so sure if Thailand would work out as our new home overseas, so we did what few people do and used our honeymoon as an opportunity to strategically scope out Bangkok, Krabi, and Chiang Mai. Crazy, we know! Although Bangkok was incredibly exciting and Krabi’s beaches blew us away, we just weren’t convinced either city was right for us. But during the final leg of our trip, our first impression of Chiang Mai had us convinced that we had chosen a great place for us to move abroad.
Our First Impression of Chiang Mai’s Demographics
Ironically, our first impression of Chiang Mai’s blend of foreigners and locals reminded us of our home back in the States. There was such a variety of people, from single Australian backpackers to entire German families, from younger Chinese tour groups to older American expats, that the melting pot of cultures gave us that familiar feeling of home. Even though Chiang Mai has a huge tourism industry while being home to many expats, Thai people were still the majority throughout every part of town. It was a nice reminder that we were, in fact, still in Thailand.
Even still, the constant influx of foreigners had made their mark on Chiang Mai’s city life. Care for a chimichanga, falafel, or a pulled pork BBQ sandwich? Absolutely! Want to watch the latest American movie at the theater? Don’t mind if we do! We loved experiencing first hand that Chiang Mai was particularly well equipped in providing Western goods and services, and that we had access to non-Thai food and entertainment in the Old City if we were in need of some variety. It was also great to see that many stores, road signs and menus were written in English. Because Chiang Mai catered well to the needs of its foreign tourists and expats, we foresaw settling into our new home to be fairly easy.
Our First Impression of Chiang Mai’s Locals
The majority of our time was spent in the Old City, which is considered the touristy area of Chiang Mai. Our first impression of Chiang Mai’s shopkeepers, street vendors, and bar owners within the Old City was overall very good. They were friendly and personable and weren’t rough around the edges like those we met in the touristy areas of Bangkok and Krabi.
We were also barely hustled in Chiang Mai! How could we potentially call a place home when we were constantly badgered for money and treated like walking wallets? As we walked along Chiang Mai’s moat and explored its inner streets, we enjoyed sightseeing with barely a shout from a taxi or tuk-tuk driver. And while we dined in many of the open-air restaurants along Chiang Mai’s moat, few vendors approached our dinner table with trinkets for sale, which was very unlike the constant interruptions we received in the first two cities we visited.
Best of all, not a single tailor shop salesman, with their slicked back hair and sly handshake, tried getting us to come into their shop and buy a $100+ suit, which was our biggest grievance in Bangkok and Krabi! In Chiang Mai, we felt like we could finally truly relax.
Our First Impression of Chiang Mai’s Connectivity
We weren’t quite sure how “off the grid” we would be once we arrived in Thailand, but our first impression of Chiang Mai’s technology infrastructure had us quite impressed. We were pleasantly surprised at how easily accessible and readily available the internet was at any of the dozens of hotels, coffee shops, and restaurants we visited.
In fact, Chiang Mai’s WiFi connections were strong, reliable, and comparable to the Western standards that we were familiar with. We also had the chance to visit the malls (yes, plural) and saw plenty of stores were selling state of the art electronics and home appliances. Contrary to what some people may think, Chiang Mai does not feel like a third world country!
Our First Impression of Chiang Mai’s Traffic
We were in for a surprise the first time we saw Thai traffic. Between people driving on the left side of the road, seeing an incredible number of motorbikes (with families of five, no doubt) whipping around cars, and the general consensus that road rules really are just guidelines, Thai traffic was overwhelming.
Although Bangkok’s traffic was mind-boggling, our first impression of Chiang Mai’s traffic had us signing with relief. We saw an immediate improvement in driver mentality and traffic intensity. We didn’t dare rent a car or motorbike in Bangkok, but we were comfortable enough to do so in Chiang Mai. It took a little while to understand the rules of the road and the “driving dance” it entails, but we got it soon enough and we whizzing around like the locals.
Our First Impression of Chiang Mai’s City Layout
We loved Chiang Mai’s layout because everything is centered on the Old City. Surrounding Chiang Mai’s Old City square moat is a two-way mini beltway in which the outer loop goes clockwise and inner loop goes counterclockwise. It is incredibly easy to access the side streets or to make a u-turn. Furthermore, larger roads branch out from the Old City’s mini beltway like spokes on a wheel and then further connect to inner and outer ring highways.
As visitors, our first impression of Chiang Mai was that it was also easy to navigate without a car or motorbike. We admit the sidewalks were (and still are) in poor condition, but we managed to explore much of the Old City on foot. We always knew where we were in relationship to the square moat. When we got tired, a quick hail to one of the tuk-tuks was all it took to get a short ride back to our hotel.
Your First Impression of Chiang Mai was that Good, Huh?
Absolutely. The five days we spent in Chiang Mai changed our lives forever. Our first impression of Chiang Mai convinced us that it was well worth our time and money to make a trip to Thailand and see for ourselves what the city had to offer before we made the big move. And now, here we are, enjoying a life we could have never had back in the States.
Great place for Aussies who want Retire on pension. You can get a Thai tourist visa for Aus $200 which will last you up to 9 months by doing boarder runs. Aussie aged pension is about Bt11000 per week. After 9 months you may have to then get a retirement visa. Go for it.
Indeed!
Thanks for the tips! We’re heading to Chiang Mai next week for a month initially! Looking forward to it!
Awesome. Have fun :)
Our go date is soon,like a week, maybe sooner if we want to outrun this hurricane that’s supposed to hit here in Hawaii at the end of the week. We have been checking out the numerous houses online for rent, but it hard when your not sure where everything is. That said, we don’t mind being outside the center and a little yard/garden would be nice. But we want to still be close enough to walk to restaurants, markets, etc. how did you go about house-hunting? We are thinking of a hotel for a week arranged before we get there… Read more »
We did exactly what you did – rent a hotel for a week and then used that time to house hunt in person. We’ve used DD Property with success in the past. The burning season is from March to May in Chiang Mai. You can go to other parts of the country, like Bangkok or the southern beaches, where this isn’t happening.
In November I decided to sell 94% of what I had accumulated over 50 years. After I got a retirement visa I bought a one-way ticket to Chiang Mai (I had never been to Thailand) and landed with 150lbs of what I could fit in 3 boxes. I had thought about Central America, South America, but decided on CM because I read it was inexpensive, good food, friendly and safe and a good base for taking trips all over SEA… so far so good. After a year or so I will re-evaluate my situation and go from there. I do… Read more »
I love Chiang Mai! I have been there many times, and I actually lived three hours north in Chiang Rai for 15 months. Chiang Rai is nice too but it very much feels like a country town, whereas Chiang Mai has that modern, metropolitan feel. If it’s possible for a city to be modern without losing it’s sense of Thai identity, Chiang Mai has struck that balance. I also used to get very bored in the evenings in Chiang Rai (I was a single 23 year old at the time looking for fun without resorting to going to the girly… Read more »
Hi, although we have been only to Chiang Rai once, we could tell it was a a lot quieter than Chiang Mai. I am sure a lot of people live nice lives there, but for a young single guy I bet it would be very hard to find new things to do within the city (nightlife especially). Can’t deny that the surrounding areas are beautiful and the short ride to Mae Sai for border runs is super convenient though. Take care Karyn!
Hi , Thanks for all those interesting articles… we had also planned to stay for some years in Thailand , Chiang Mai was our first choice despite having no access to the sea. But after 2 short stays we fear to get bored in this very nice city for our long stay. OK hundreds of very nice small ‘restaurants or food counter’, some bar full of backpackers but we miss to find some nice place to hang out on the evening to get a few fresh beer and listen some music… Anyway, Chiang Mai will surely attracts us for new… Read more »
Phil, thank you for the comment! We agree that Chiang Mai is not for everyone. We like it because it is cheap, has character, and is small/navigable. It is a great base for us, and when we do start to get a little restless we simply take a short trip to one of the other towns in Northern Thailand. Not to mention you can hop a plane to the islands for around $70 each. So far, so good for us. Keep checking back as we will be exploring all of Thailand…little by little. Take care!
Great read, guys!
Me and my husband travel and work on the go and just got to Chiang Mai a few days ago. We liked it here too and so we rented a place to stay for a month (at least). Let’s see how it goes..
I’ll be checking some of our other posts for tips and inspiration! ;)
Cheers!
Thanks! We are glad that you two are enjoying Chiang Mai! Hopefully you found a nice place and are finding your way around the Old City. Definitely let us know if you need any tips! Take care :)
hi guys, im really enjoying your blog! im moving over to thailand from australia in feb and am still hesitant where to end up. is there much in the way of public transport in Chiang Mai? I dont think im ready to jump on a scooter and battle the thai traffic as yet!
We understand! If you don’t know how to ride a motorbike, but learning to maneuver the bike AND trying to understand Thai traffic patterns will be challenging. The public transport in Chiang Mai is essentially the thousands of tuk tuk and songtaews that populate the city at all hours of the day. For longer distance travel, there is a bus station and the airport only a short ride from the city center. If you chose to use public transportation, we recommend staying within or very close to the Old City and to invest in a bicycle.
Hi, Angela and Chris. We really enjoy your blog! We just started one to document our early retirement plans. Check it out–it’s free-tirement.weebly.com. We were in CM about 8 years ago and it will be our first destination when we leave the working world, either June 2014 or 2015, depending on a few pending financial factors. Have already started purging, tossing, donating, and selling our household stuff and it feels amazing to lighten our load (your post on when to sell is helpful to us). Happy travels to you both!
Yeah, Chiang Mai is a really great place! Cannot wait to go back there!!
You got that right. No place that we would rather be!
A great summary of Chiang Mai which is spot on. I’ve found it a wonderful & easy place to live – it feels foreign but is not difficult to get things done. And there is the full spectrum of very local to very touristy so you can slot in anywhere.
We’re glad you feel the same way. Chiang Mai is well suited to meet the wide range of needs of foreigners, whether visitors or expats. We felt that it was very easy to fit right in :)
When I travel I am one to go “off the beaten path” and avoid the touristy areas. That is not to say that I won’t visit them but I like to experience a new land and really get immersed in the culture. :-)
This is such a catch-22. Some people don’t feel comfortable going out of the touristy zones because of fear of the unknown or because they can’t communicate with the locals, but how can you really learn about a place until you go off the beaten path? Your way of traveling is fabulous. It certainly takes courage!.
I so envy your courage in making such a drastic move to achieve the life you’ve always wanted. My husband and I travel often, but have yet to try to make lifestyle changes that would make it a way of life. I’m sure we will someday. We spent a few years living and working in national parks. It’s a great lifestyle :)
It sounds like what you do makes you happy, and the fact that you regularly travel is more that what most people can say. No need to “make the big jump” if you know what works for you. And living in a national park? We bet you saw some beautiful things!
What is interesting is the ventured out of your comfort zone which is truly amazing. I am sure that you are going to experience a better quality of life. And isn’t that what it is all about.
It definitely is. We are just glad that we came to realize it pretty early on in our lives. Thanks!
After almost 3 years living in Bangkok, we spent 2 months in Chiang Mai before traveling around SE Asia. And like you, we were very impressed. It’s somewhere that’s easy to feel at home and where living costs are very reasonable. We will definitely be back, but maybe for longer next time. But we do love Bangkok as well.
We’re glad to hear so many people are impressed by Chiang Mai. What did you love about Bangkok since you lived there for three years?
Very insigrselhtful, and poignant about Chiang Mai. Thanks :). Me and Lan are both newbies to CM ourselves, and like you, have come to really appreciate what this city has to offer. We are both world travelers in our own right, and have only been together a short time ourselves, but I have at one time called Thailand home for 4 years in the past as I worked in the Diving Industry. Bringing Lan to Thailand with the intent of exploring CM has been eventful. I wanted to show her the good, the bad, and the ugly, so Bangkok, Pattaya,… Read more »
We could go on for years exploring all the little nooks and crannies in Chiang Mai. So you both have traveled extensively and decided to make Chiang Mai your permanent home? That certainly says something. If you have any places you highly recommend going to in Chiang Mai, do share!
And you worked in the diving industry? That. sounds. awesome.
Even in a car we hardly ever get stuck in traffic around CM. If we do its usually on the trendy nimmanhaemen road or the canal route round the city. But it never lasts more than 10 minutes or so. Which is nothing compared to the 3 hours + we sometimes got stuck in the UKs motorways and London city streets. CM is a great place to live. Loved the post guys
Canal Road and Nimmanheamin are basically the two areas where the cars back up a lot, but really, 10 minutes sitting in traffic is nothing. CM traffic is still far better than what we used to deal with back in DC or what you used to deal with back in London!
We just get anxious thinking about sitting in a car because we know that if a bike can zig zag throughout the traffic and cover more ground :) But of course, it depends if you are comfortable doing that on a bike!
Just a Thai passerby. I live in CM for 40 years. Love your blog! Anyway I should warn you that now the schools in CM are closed, hence the light traffic. If the schools open (in about a month) the traffic will be busy, esp. in the morning (around 7-9 am.) and the evening (around 4-6 pm.) However the traffic jam in CM still far behind those in BKK from my point of view.
Khop Khun Krup! It means a lot to hear such nice words from a longtime resident of Chiang Mai. You are absolutely right about the school traffic. Angela is a teacher and her school will go back into session next week. Luckily, we do not live far from her school and are able to take a few back roads to get there. Newcomers to Chiang Mai should definitely keep an eye out for small children and changing traffic patterns during the hours that you mentioned above. On a side note, we always love seeing the cute kids walking to school… Read more »
I love when I find a place and immediately know I could be happy living there – but I usually don’t get to know if it would work out in the long term. I’m glad you found such a perfect fit!
Thank you! There is just something about Chiang Mai that sucks you right in. Especially after having spent time elsewhere in the country. It was definitely the right fit for us!
Can’t wait to visit it myself!
We think that you both will love it! How much longer until you make it here?
We are arriving in Chiang Mai Dec 28. We are staying close to Chiang mai gate. Were invited to Doo Dee’s new year’s last year and promised the we would be there..
We live about a 1/2 km south of Doo Dee on the same road. We go there almost once a week for their pizza special on Wednesday! Love that place! We would love to meet up for dinner there after you are settled in…
Great post. We got the same feeling about chiang Mai, that is why we are moving there this december
Time is flying, huh? Good luck with all of your preparations. We know how hectic things can get, so hang in there!
I haven’t been back to Chiang Mai since 2008, I remember it as a great city including the locals. One thing you’re constantly reminded about Thailand is that the people of the North (The Game of Thrones voice just came to mind “from the North!”) are much more hospitable the further you go. I’m glad to hear it is as you describe it and how it strongly Chiang Mai resonates for the both of you. I hope to visit in the new year and as someone who is familiar with Thailand having a place to relax as you quoted –… Read more »
Thanks for the feedback Johnny! We really appreciate the words of encouragement. You are spot on about the levels of hospitality trending up the further north you go. We can totally agree with that statement from our experience traveling around Thailand.
We’re glad someone else can relate to our suit salesman complaint! They are hard to escape in the south, but as unless you really go searching for them you won’t have any issues come up at all. Take care!
Great post again. Whets our appetite for our visit and our move.
Thanks again! We see that you guys are lightening your load around the house lately. How does it feel to be shedding some of your things. It was a great experience for us. Definitely filled with mixed emotions throughout though!
We really enjoyed Chiang Mai. It was also our first motobike rental in SE Asia, we arrived back into town at rush hour. It was a truly interesting experience!
Rush hour on a motorbike can be crazy, but it beats being in one of those poor cars not going anywhere. Being able to pass on the shoulder is a lifesaver!